Y9 Review - Wine Reviews by Wine Critic John Turi
Chateau D'Yquem, 2003

Château d’Yquem, 2003

Wine Rating: 97

Well, another December has found us and the merry feeling that grabs me during this month is nothing short of nostalgic. Even though the chill that we get living in Southern California is modest, I find it very welcoming. If I need a fix of some real winter weather, I just drive two hours up to the mountains and feel like a kid again, playing outside in the snow like I did growing up in New Jersey.

At this time of year, I really start to revel in the delights of the season: the enjoyment of family and friends, the blended moments of pleasantries, the gift giving. And the foods and beverages as well—hors-d’oeuvres, hot chocolate, and, of course, really great wines, which are never lost on me.

The holiday season is a time when I get to pair really great food and with amazing wines. This is a time I even put aside my own rule of no white wine after Labor Day and enjoy a Riesling or a Gewürztraminer, just for the occasion.

After we’ve enjoyed an enormous Christmas dinner and it’s settling in my belly, the holiday desserts start finding their way to the table, including freshly baked pies, cheese cakes, Christmas cookies, roasted chestnuts and, of course, cognac. I like to add a great dessert wine to the end of the feast and, depending on my mood, it can be an ice wine, late harvest wine or a sauterne. The sweet balance of these wines will really enhance the flavors of your favorite pie and even the savory sweetness in a scoop of ice cream, much like a grand cru Bordeaux brings out the nuances of a porterhouse steak.

First, let’s establish the differences between various types of dessert wines. All are very similar, but how they get their sweetness is quite different. There is no simple explanation as to what makes one so very different from another, but the uniqueness from sherry to port, from Madeira to sweet white dessert wines is nothing short of extraordinary. It would take a month to explain the many different ways that each of these spectacular wines are made, from how the sugar and alcohol levels produce very specific results to the fact that every region in the many different countries that produce dessert wines has its own classification. But this month I am just going to touch on a single varietal. It will be, of course, the most famous and one of the most expensive of all the sweet wines.

It comes from the Sauternais region of the Graves section in Bordeaux at the Premier Cru Supérieur estate Château d’Yquem and it’s the only wine in the area to receive First Growth distinction because of its superiority. This varietal is classified from the region namesake, Sauternes. Notice the capital “S” and that the word ends in an “s,” unlike the U.S. rip-off of the name: sauterne.

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle grapes are left on the vine longer than a normal grape. The effect is the harvest becomes infested with Botrytis cinerea, which is commonly called noble rot. This makes the grapes raisin-like and from this Sauternes is made.

A Drinker With A Writing Problem Cover
The cover of my book is this Château d’Yquem

To be clear, ALL Sauternes have noble rot and, because of the climate, Sauternes is one of the few regions where contamination with noble rot happens relatively often. However, there are times when this natural process does not happen and as a result, the production of Sauternes can be unpredictable. When this occurs, it’s referred to as a poor vintage, and the vintage will not be produced that year. An interesting fact is that grapes actually ‘rot’ on the vines and then they are harvested, but not every grape gets the noble rot, which is needed for this type of wine.  Wines from Sauternes, especially the Château d’Yquem, tend to be pricey, in large part due to the high cost of producing such a wine and the limited availability.

From Wikipedia: In a poor vintage, the entire crop is deemed unworthy of bearing the Château d’Yquem name and sold anonymously; this happened nine times in the 20th century: 1910, 1915, 1930, 1951, 1952, 1964, 1972, 1974, and 1992 and in the 21st century one time: 2012.

The section located south of Bordeaux has been renowned for many centuries for its sweet white wines, and Chateau d’Yquem has always been the unquestionable monarch of the Sauternes. Chateau d’Yquem stands on a hill with perfect microclimate. According to local beliefs, the 19th-century proprietors of Chateau d’Yquem were the first French winemakers to recognize the value of what has become known as “noble rot,” which is again a form of botrytis bunch rot, a fungal attack on the vines and grapes. Chateau d’Yquem includes 254.2 acres of producing vineyards, planted to 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon. The average vine is 30 years old, and approximately 110,000 bottles are produced every year.

Château d’Yquem itself was acquired by Jacques de Sauvage in December of 1593. Ownership of the property has changed hands over the last few hundred years and even Thomas Jefferson acquired 250 bottles of the 1748 vintage for himself and a few for George Washington, though, of course, the quality was not as refined as it is today. In 1996 Robert Parker reviewed a bottle of the 1811 vintage and rated it 100. Yes, this wine can age well over 100 years, if stored properly. Over time, usually after 25 years or so, the color will turn from its usual gold luster to deep shimmering amber.

In 2011, a bottle of the 1811 vintage sold at auction for $117,000. It was the most expensive bottle of white wine ever sold. Today Louis Vuitton owns 55% of the company and helps maintain the pride and quality that d’Yquem has come to be known for over the centuries. Château d’Yquem has a spectacular history in the wine world and, as most dessert wines are, theirs are commonly sold in a half bottle size (375ml). Château d’Yquem is a wine that should absolutely be on your bucket list.

Château d’Yquem

Produced by: Château d’Yquem
Winemaker: Pierre Lurton

Winery: Château d’Yquem
City: Bordeaux
Vintage: 2003
Region: Sauternes, Gironde
Location: France
Varietal: Sauternes

Appearance (Color): Gold
Aroma (Complexity): Apricot, plum, citrus, jasmine
Body (Texture and Weight): medium and thick
Taste (Balance of Flavor): apricot, orange zest, vanilla, fig
Finish (What lingers): marmalade, rose, hibiscus
Price: $300

Food Paring: with nearly any dessert
Serving Temperature: 48°
Drink: Now through 2103

John Turi